Naivety is the navel bliss. That what surfing is. At least to me. I found surfing after looking for a culture to be a part of. It rescued me in some manner and it gave me a direction and a place where I found myself and reveal myself, not with arrogant but confidence, over and over again. It is the one thing you can do in life where you just don’t need to compete with other. It is the major and significant challenge of competing with yourself and discover your true self. With time I learned that no one can frighten me in that place. More than that, I experienced determination!
As a young in the 80's I was enthusiastic and excited and developed eager to what surfing brands were doing back in those days. In those days watching the "GODS OF WESTERN SURF" pushing to the next level with the great support and aid from the surfing industry was like the best show to watch. Brands started to pop up and to create a vast reality that followed me along the years and perhaps molded me into what I am today.
Brands are the major force that led people all over the globe to discover and experience surfing not for the goods and vanity of the peaks. needs to say. People all over got the chance to experience that Naivety of a surfer and to feel free for once in their life. But what is hidden behind the coolest logos and the surfing scene of the major brands?
Who is pulling the strings and keeps that Puppet shows alive? Is it the surfers themselves or the guys sitting behind desks at high floor office doing analytic and calculation about which surfer doing what money? and what is the next bright move to make profit increase? Profit that depends on that Naivety of the core surfing.
Not to be confused, brands all over the world contributed a lot along the years for the benefit of the surfing culture and still are , as a part of a small Industry with a small brand of my own I know it for sure. But there's a fine line that goes… and So far so Good, but what the fuck is going to come next??? Next to "King Kelly " hydro sonic wave pool? Next to the fact that 4 years from now a kook with no relation what so ever to that experimental journey of a surfer, will sit on his fucking couch with a ball of DORITOS between his hips and watch it in the Olympics Just because the fuckin T.V is on?
Icons of surf industry now days start to protest against it. Protesting against that Fantastic Synthetic Experimental feeling. Protesting against that feeling that the "Industry" itself generates, and surfers as an apprentice doing the best they can unconsciously or not to avoid that feeling and to keep surfing mature in its own way, with its own way of thinking ,with its own unique creative language and not for the holy sake of the gold and fortune .As Dane Reynolds protest and does in new film "Chapter 11".And other pro free surfers (with brands of their own or supported by ) protesting against the long dead plastic scene of 21st century surfing "Industry" .
"The Great Southern Trend Kill" once sobbed to the world, THE TREND IS DEAD!!! No more of that long dead plastic scene .It is going pathetic without even asking…The "Industry" consume every mental profit that emerge from the Naïve and True and felicity action of surfing .It is boring and oppressive the way surfing moves towards. Surfing is more than A sport and it will ever be. No matter where they broadcast the next event or heat. Along the years I discovered that there's a lot more into it than that.