THE GREAT WAISSMAN
Life puts you on the pan for breakfast occasionally. When so grab your board and get out there to rock.
That was the position within one November morning when me and my oldest son decided to start the day with a surf. Hips of kooks swamp in the pick paddling right and left, back and forth regardless the swell direction neither its changes, causing us anxiety and fatigue.That's when I realized… everybody jumping on the pan!
It was non time when me and the lady worked each on his own PC while Joan Baez played delicate Dylan tunes. I stepped outside the west pointed porch and saw the leftover of the first autumn swell. "I found out today we're going wrong" I crooned to myself while the lady wondered for an afternoon action with the kids .My skin rushed for the thrill of a roll as I spotted some nice sets uprising the coast .There is only one place that you willing to be when things goes too baffle, Your childhood secluded break! #thedeathofcows .A.s.a.p. we hit the road with a bowl of bolognaise under arms picked up the kids from school and headed toward our long time break. Not too long it was before the cellphone rang with the name of my longtime friend (and my attorney on subtle manners) showing on screen. We set to meet in 5 min. at Daddy'z yard.
The Great Waissman was the first to lay my eyes on as a young lad to surf the shit out of it. Certainly he's one of the few to give me the moral push into shaping. A 5'10" 95 kilos ex guard ship commander and a lawyer, skilled waterman, who practice yoga in the morning and Thai boxing by night. That's to say he can scream and still relaxed. He is unbelievable reckless character.
There he stood, confidently and rough in a white blouse, black tailor pants, flashing black shoes, waited for us to come at Daddy'z yard. I remember thinking to myself when I first saw him "angel or devil I don’t know what it is?" (After all he is my attorney). We cheat and chat for a tick, shared with him the plans for the afternoon, followed by his words "WELL…LETS ROCK"! just get me a boardshort to wet my balls with. The first sight of Magick took place. not a while after, there he stood, white blouse, black boardshort, flashing black shoes jigging his sturdy belly to pick himself a device to surf. That's a GONZO I prompt to the lady. That's a GONZO!
Off we went all togtha to conquer ones again #thedeathofcows.
Scenic ride it is to #thedeathofcows. grumpy terrain, drift sand every ones in a while, you can spot the casualties of it by the monuments of planks, as an evidence of a struggle, once took place to salvage the thrusted vehicles alongside the grumpy road. After a pit and a mound THERE IT CAME the spectacle of a vast blue caterpillar crawling sea.
Last push on the throttle and we sprang out from the truck with flurry unleashing the crafts from the rack as the Great Waissman put on the first craft choice dilemma, who is surfing what???
What is a surfboard for a surfer if not a device which help him explore the matter of surfing?
There were 9'0 planning hull glider, a 9'0 spoon nose log, a 7'2" squash tail super twin fish and 5'2" quad Simmons.
I got stone while he was waxing and off we raid, myself with the glider and the Great Waissman with the 9'0 log. It was the perfect condition for the glider either the log. Waist high clean sets arrived, occasionally and regularly, caused us endeavor and rejoice .splashing water and barrels, we shared the space and time Magicklly. The Lady joined the play after a while at this mesmerizer autumn afternoon swell.
The last wave of the day was her while I stood on the chilly subtle sand mumbling to myself with great emancipation Jack Bruce song,
"I f o u n d o u t t o d a y w e 'r e g o i n g w r o n g".
The Great Waissman was the first to lay my eyes on as a young lad to surf the shit out of it. Certainly he's one of a few to give me the moral push into shaping. A 5'10" 95 kilos ex guard ship commander and a lawyer, skilled waterman, who practice yoga in the morning and Thai boxer by night. That's to say he can scream and still relaxed .He is unbelievable reckless character.